PLAIN DEALER, SUNDAY, JUNE 15, 1986 Canadian re restaurants offer a world of good food A By MARCIA DOUGLAS terol and sodium. High in the Winter Place at the Sheraton Center (416-361-1000) you Food lovers know that restaurants define the heart and soul of a city. From Ontario to Newfoundland, the cities of Eastern Canada offer a banwith a variety of foods seldom found in one country. Start with Toronto, Ontario, a city that is developing a reputation as a dazzling restaurant town. Some of the best eating can be done in hotels, where contemporary chefs are decimating the saying that hotel food always tastes the same.
There's something special about walking through the posh, spacious Courtyard Cafe in the Windsor Arms Hotel (416-979-2341). The small, Victorian hotel has become the spiritual center of the city's cultural crowd. Some go to see and be seen, but most go for the casual character, the live classical background music at night and the bright "cuisine naturelle" which uses no cream, no butter, no oil, no alcohol, a minimum of salt or sugar and tastes divine Truffles, a swanky French countryinn dining room in the Four Seasons Hotel (416-964-0411), offers rare wines from such areas as Gascony, the Loire Valley and the Basque region to complement a popular alternative cuisine very low in calories, choles- have one of nighttime Toronto's most spectacular views. The fare is a nifty combination of czarist-Russian and French delicacies served with flair. Trader Vic's lavish and rambling setting in the Westin Hotel (416-869-3456) features one of the most ambitious menus with imaginative fresh offerings from Polynesia and Asia.
The menu reads like a book. Tucked away without any signs, in a stunningly renovated small residential hotel of the same name, you'll find the Bradgate Arms Dining Room (416-968-1331). Seating only 54 at the well-spaced tables, the restaurant is like a private salon. It serves elegant foods such as duckling with blueberries in a romantic setting. There are some extraordinary meals to be had on sidetrips from Toronto, especially in Stratford.
Theater-fanciers know the town as home to the famed Stratford Festival and that most action takes place during "the season" generally April through October. The Church (519-273-3424) was a church until 1975. Today its visitors worship classical cooking served amidst stained glass windows, the rich woodwork of the altar and the massive pipe organ-cum-wine rack. Aftertheater buffet features an array of salads, pates, hot and cold meats and desserts. Randles (519-271-6442) has a cool, elegant, minimalist-kind-of-decadence to its decor; the food is equally stunning with memorable surprise gifts such as a sherry aperitif with savory hors d'ouevres, a plate of chic sweets following dessert.
And they do exquisite baskets while you laze, gazing at swans in Queen's Park. The Old Prune (519-271-5052) is situated in three small rooms of a charming old Edwardian home where scrubbed floorboards creak and a solarium provides the garden: Here's where to cuddle up with classical music, flowered linens, ceiling fans and mostly French food that is inventive. In quaint Niagara-on-the-Lake, stay at the Pillar and Post Inn (416-468-2123). The wee town itself reeks with Loyalist history, and the newly renovated inn, which was a cannery in the 1800s, is a showplace. You'll find bountiful good food in the spacious dining room.
The falls are minutes away. 0 Like the paintings of an old master, the province of Quebec manages to combine provincial charm with the grand shadings of elegance. The latter abounds in Quebec City, where you'll find piquant Canadians who are French to the core. The city of Quebec's most celebrated landmark is in "upper town," where Chateau Frontenac's turretted copper towers pierce the sky and look down upon the humming city, the blue St. Lawrence River.
Just below, connoisseurs head for the undiscovered, unpretentious and unbeatable little Hotel Clarendon (57 rue 418-692-2480). Built in 1870, it's an art noveau jewel with scrubbed, small bedrooms, windows you can open to hear street sounds and modest room rates. The mirrored dining room is replete with potted palms, crystal in glass-fronted highboys, fine entertainment and food which is exquisitely prepared of the freshest, best local products. What the Algonquin Hotel was to New York City, the Clarendon is to Quebec; you're bound to find local artists, musicians, and celebrities lounging around in the kind of atmosphere that continues to make small hotels great. Also don't miss dining at Aux Anciens Canadiens' (418-692-1627) 17th century stone house with rougered roof for such quebecois specialities as habitant soup, country meat pies and maple sugar pie.
Dozens of other tiny restaurants dwell in the old city on twisty, cobbled streets; two of the most popular are on aptly named Breakneck Stairs near the Chateau. Like Paris bistros, these have unpretentious decor, superb food and customers who obviously are more involved with their companions than in people-watching: Chez Rabelais (418-692-1503) and Marie-Clarisse for fish specialties (418-692-0857). Most restaurants are little and crowded, so be sure to reserve ahead. People call weeks in advance to be certain of space a la table de Serge Bruyere (418-694-0618); this is in: an 18th century landmark building and is marvelously run by the not inexpensive, but far less than you'd pay in New York. However, below his 15-table, upper-level dining room he has recently opened and inexpensive cafe for lunch, tea, evening snacks.
Be warned he, as so many others, is closed on Sundays and Mondays. 0 Too often bypassed by travelers hightailing it to other maritime destinations, New Brunswick beckons with rolling hills that swoop around the Saint John River. The lower Saint John River Valley is acclaimed as one of the most beautiful and underused waterways in North America. There is no safer, more idyllic area to go houseboating; you will have the river with all its tributaries and lakes virtually to yourself. The boats are on pontoons which make them easy to tie up and navigational charts are easy enough for any first-timer to read.
Here's where to come if you enjoy meeting cultures in contrast, chatty warm folks and wonderful food. Visit Gagetown, a tiny Loyalist village and one of the more populated areas between Saint John and Fredericton. Here, you will find true sailors, Tom Colpitt's quintessential general store, bike rentals to peruse homes from the 1700s, abundant craft shops excelling in batik, weaving, pot- Tennessee has line on festivities For information on festivities for the statewide Tennessee Homecoming '86, contact the Tennessee Homecoming committee, 18th Floor, James K. Polk Building, Nashville, Tenn. 37219; telephone 615-741-1986.
NEW DIRECT CHARTER FLIGHTS CANCUN 7 NITES 8 DAYS MEXICO STARTING $310 ALL INCLUSIVE AT PER PERSON DOUBLE Price includes: Roundtrip direct via ATS Airlines. -7 nights. Roundtrip Hotel Transfers in Cancun, all luggage handling, all taxes, tips and gratuities included. Hospitality Desk staffUT5 TOURS ed by Mexican UTS Tours departure tax Representatives. not included DEPARTURES EVERY SUNDAY AVAILABLE ONLY THRU YOUR TRAVEL AGENTI ADAMS TRAVEL BUCHNER COMPLETE FAIRVIEW BUREAU TOURS TRAVEL TRAVEL 4004 Mayfield Rd Euclid Sq.
Bishop at Chardon 21717 Lorain Rd. Cleveland, OH 44121 Mall Willoughby Hills, OH 44092 Cleveland, OH 44128 291-3000 731-8606 944-9200 333-4660 GARFIELD GROGER NORTH SHORE TRAVEL TRAVEL KOLLANDER TRAVEL 5021 Turney Ad. 251 Old Arcade TRAVEL Garfield OH 44125 Cleveland, OH 44114 692-2225 291-3434 475-4622 TEMPO TRAVEL VALLEYHILL Call Your TRAVEL BUG TRAVEL Brookpark Rd. 25350 Rockside Rd. 7872 Broadview Rd.
U.T.S. Parma, OH 44129 Bedford OH 44148 Parma, OH 44134 351-1212 439-7736 524-8530 Travel Agent tery, a fine little museum and haunted houses. Just upstream eat at Steamers Stop Inn (506-488-2903) furnished with antiques and serving hearty homecooking grandma-style, chicken and dumplings and fresh fruit pies. About one-third of New Brungwickers are Acadian, descendants of the original French settlers. The rug.
ged coastline from Moncton north takes you into Acadian territory for a taste of pure French Canada. Shediac is where lobster reigns supreme; every July is Lobster Festival time, so feast at Fisherman's Paradise (506-532-6811) it's a large eatery with reasonable prices. Boo Accuell (506-876-4310) in Kouchibouguac National Park is a popularly priced picnic-style place serving only lobster; it was opened by consumer demand for the owners used to operate from a truck. The town of Caraquet's spartan Hotel Paulin (506-727-9981) is a convivial place with delicious traditional Acadian treats: clam pie, the freshest seafood and infamous hot sugar pie. Acadian Village (506-727-3467) is a working, restored historic settlement of 30 buildings depicting life from 1780-1880; see the smithy, the cobbler, the printshop and mill; then eat in the newly opened restaurant featuring authentic Acadian food of those times pate (a two crust meat pie), routine rape (salt or preserved in potato).
Their recipes reflect a seacoast people forced to live off the land in hard times. No trip to the Acadian peninsula is complete without a meal at Nigadoo's La Fine Grobe (called La fin grub, a delightful and intentional pun). The place is ada's practically best pit notorious stops; the as one friendly of Can- res- taurant was originally opened just to lure tourists to see the owners' craf-. twork he is a potter, she paints silks. The food was so fresh and the views so alluring that visitors swelled.
the ranks and the place grew, now showcasing the fine crafts of quilters and other local artisans as well. Reservations are a must (506-783-3138). The remaining two-thirds of the province, English New Brunswick, reflects its British heritage and traditions. In Fredericton, a picture-perfect first rate university town, the best restaurant is Eighty Eight Ferry (506-472-1988). Ruth and Steve Chappell have turned this home into an.
intimate rendezvous where every room is a study and every table is the best. The imaginative menu has the, jump on haute cuisine with character. You must try the velvety soup with edible flowers afloat and snails 88 where licky escargots truly grace a split banana. A favorite of the theater and press crowd, this is a signal restaurant likely to draw food lovers from all along the Atlantic Coast. Sunset is especially beautiful overlooking the river.
While in town, you'll want to stay at the Wandlyn Inn (506-452-8937); accommodations are simple but pleasant and their is terrific. -FLORIDA- The province of Prince Edward Island is not known for its restaurants. But the collective appetite for fresh lobster has become almost a mania. Community lobster suppers are everywhere, sponsored by service clubs as well as communities. Informal lobster suppers run from mid through mid-September; but some groups have their own lobster pans, don't rely on 'the season' and can offer the red beauties from mid-May through mid-October.
So be canny; ask around. Nowhere on the island is too far to drive for the treat. It seems the entire province specializes in seafood. There are some dining rooms of good repute: Many say Minnie's Dining Room and Lounge in Charlottetown (902-894-7232) serves the best seafood specialities on the island; you'll also want to try Lobster Shanty North in Montague (902-838-2463). Highly recommended as a charming Bed Breakfast place to stay is the Silver Fox Inn in Summerside (902-436-4033): The old property is beautifully preserved and furnished with authentic antiques; their breakfasts are lovely.
0 There are only three good reasons to go to Newfoundland: to feed your senses, to feed your soul, to feed your belly. To do this properly, see the West Coast, take the Viking Trail up to L'Anseaux-Meadows (world heritage site) and see traces of their ruins and reconstructed dwellings. Use the Glyamill Inn in Corner GET PALM BEACH COUNTY FOR LESS THAN YOU EXPECTED. AND THESE BOOKS FOR FREE. Palm County Beach Win During the summer you can have all the pleasure of Palm Beach County at a very affordable price.
Find out everything. Just write or call 1-800-952-0600. Name. Address. City- State.
ZipMail to: Palm Beach County, 1555 Palm Beach Lakes West Palm Beach, FL 33401 Palm Beach County Florida THE BEST OF EVERYTHING. CPD-2 The best Mini-Trip you may have this summer Come on over, we've been Experience the life of a soldier expecting you. at historic Fort Malden. A stratThere's more to see and do in egic military post during the war Windsor and Essex County, of 1812 and now a historic park. Canada, than you can imagine.
Where to eat and drink. What follows are just a few Dine with a view of lakes and suggestions. After you've read it harbours, sit at a sidewalk send for our free colorful booklet "Welcome to Wind- enjoy an elegant restaurant. You can't come to Canada sor Essex without sampling some of our great hospitality. A few things to see and do.
Homemade French onion soup, Italian pasta, Greek The Queen Elizabeth Il Gardens in Jackson Park. Gyros, Japanese sushi, you name it, we have it. A four-acre Rose Garden displaying over 12,000 roses Bon appetit. from 450 varieties surrounding a unique World War Shopping. II Memorial, an original Lancaster Bomber.
Don't miss our shops. Your dollar buys more in See the Peace Fountain in the river at Coventry Canada now than ever before. Fashions, furs, bone Gardens. A breathtaking array of coloured water pat- china, furniture. The perfect trip for shoppers who like terns that also provide a background to music perfor- bargains.
mances in the summer. Now that you know something about us, and we Stroll the rambling boardwalk through marshes at haven't even mentioned our galleries, museums, and the southernmost tip of Canada, Point Pelee National beaches, wouldn't you like to spend some time here? Park. Visit Colasanti's a tropical Cactus and paradise Tropical for old Gardens. and A young two alike, and WINDSOR a half acre greenhouse of colourful blooms, cactus and ESSEX COUNTY greenery. You can talk to exotic parrots, feed the PELEE ISLAND animals and then relax over a hot cider.
City Lights Please Essex send me your free colorful booklet "Welcome to Windsor County Sights NAME. WINDSOR ADDRESS ESSEX COUNTY PELEE ISLAND Mail to: Convention Visitors Bureau, 80 Chatham St. Windsor, Ontario Canada N9A 2W1. Brook (709-634-5181) as your main operating base for it never fails to welcome you European-style with friendly comforts and a grandiose din- ing room which delivers freshspecialties and includes great especially Etty's partridgeberry tarts. From there you can tour esque fishing hamlets called outports, trek to Gros Morne National Park, and go jigging for cod on the Jay Are HI.
The other way to do Newfoundland is to head straight for St. John and the Hotel Newfoundland (Cavendish Square; 709-726-4980). The city is the salty old queen of the North Atlantic and a gem. The small harbor is surrounded by high protective hills, making it one of the best in the world. Picturesque old clapboard salt-box houses with saddle roofs line the old streets.
14 From there it is easy to visit outports such as Conception Harbour and Brigus, where salt tang and sweet clover are in the air. All this outdoor meandering works up a hearty appetite, easily assuaged in St. John at such places as 290 (709-722-1290) for what's freshest that day, Sidestreet (709-726-6150) for fine Italiane cuisine, and the Woodstock Colonial Inn (709-722-6933) for rarities such as seal flipper pie. Douglas is a free-lance writer from Toronto. -NEW JERSEY- ATLANTIC CITY ONLY $99 A R.T.
$20 in Quarters. EAST SIDE SIDE 439-2356 398-8080 (hir Registr. A A Mantic P.O. Box 1257 Catalina Carolina Ocean Motel End Ave. Directly Opposite CASINO SPECIAL FREE REFRIG IN COLOR ROOMS TV FREE SWIMMING POOL $36 AIR CONDITIONED Daily FREE PARKING Per Pers.
Dbl Occ. Special Group Pkgs. Avail. WRITE, PHONE Toll-Free 1-800 257-8610 Direct 1-609 348-3137 ATLANTIC CITY FROM $3995 Super Saver Mini Atlantic City 2 days $20 BONUS July 27-28, Aug. 24-25 $109.951 Atlantic City Weekend 3 days departs Friday returns Sunday $20 BONUS July 18-20, Aug.
15-17 $179.95 One Day Casino Express departs every Tuesday Saturday Tuesday $39.95 Saturday $41.95 Casino bonus is subject to change without notice, prices quoted are per person, double occupancy. 216-292-3222 BLUE BIRD, Oglebay Summer Packages $49 Per day Double occupancy Plus tax Enjoy the rustic luxury of Wheeling's 1500 acre family resort at special money saving rates! Includes: Deluxe Accommodations Wilson Lodge, Country Style Breakfast Daily, Complimentary co*cktail, Tennis, Miniature Golf, Par 3 Golf, Admission to Mansion Museum, Admission to Good Zoo, Paddle Boating, Indoor Outdoor Swimming, Nightly Enter. tainment Glassworks, Guest Membership WV Racquet Club, Admission at Wheeling Downs Grey. hound Track. 1-800-624-6988 Just hours from Cleveland in Wheeling.
WV. Take to Cambridge then 1-70 east to Wheeling. Ask about our Golf Packages, too! Oglebay. 5. a 50, 1 4130.
